The only tattoo I’ve ever wanted was this quote from Meditations:
"To-day I have got out of all trouble, or rather I have cast out all trouble, for it was not outside, but within and in my opinions."
I had planned on putting it right where my heart is and then filling it in as though that part of skin and muscle were gone and you could see the bones and organs and blood vessels and whatnot. What the fuck would I even put on my skinny ass legs anyway?
“Halla Banafa filed a claim with the commission after she was turned down at age 18 for a job stocking merchandise at an Abercrombie Kids store in Milpitas, Calif., in Silicon Valley. According to the E.E.O.C., the manager made a note of “not Abercrombie look” on the interview form.”—This NY Times article, which discusses how Muslims (who account for less than 2% of the American population) constitute roughly 25% of the discrimination complaints filed with the Equal Employment Opportunity Commision, includes a tidbit about some notable cases of discrimination by Abercrombie & Fitch. Wait. Abercrombie & Fitch being intolerant of someone who isn’t white, thin, toned, and basically doesn’t look like a brainless, fragrance-drenched life-size Barbie or Ken doll? Quelle surprise.
I tried really hard to keep up and do it right, but a combination of a crazy schedule and two crazy lesbians robbing me totally threw me off track. I think actually finishing one of these season reviews ought to be my upcoming New Year’s Resolution.
We never thought we’d say this, but Gitman Brothers’ Vintage shirts might be too awesome. For two years now, the men of Hayes Valley have had their shirts pilfered, borrowed, and stolen by female friends/wives/girlfriends/people they let see their closets and we are here to put an end to the…
“with this collection, alexander wang has declared himself the helmut lang of this generation. honestly, piece by piece, look by look, this collection strikes every fantastic chord that we once saw come down the runways of helmut lang himself. the smart fashion girl would buy every single piece of this stuff and make it her own. we’re witnessing a changing of the guard.” note: shut up.
ADAM Adam Lippes has done pretty well for himself by doing pretty well, which is exactly why his pretensions at Philo-esque minimalism (the leather blouses, the harder-edged silhouettes) were such a mistake against a backdrop of such beautiful and sensible separates and dresses.
Alexander Wang Whether you love Alex Wang (for his slouch, his sportiness, his irrepressibly youthful approach to fashion) or hate him (for his repetition, his predictability, his almost all-consuming ubiquity), this collection isn’t going to change your mind either way, though it may help you figure out which accessories you must have/must avoid for next spring.
BCBG Maz Azria For a brand that focuses so much on the pretty and the commercial, the Azrias offered a surprisingly functional and focused collection of frocks that deftly married their penchant for the pretty with the minimal streak running through womenswear today.
Cynthia Rowley Didn’t care for it last season and I don’t see any reason to end my streak now.
Cosetllo Tagliapetra My favorite pair of bears turned down the volume but cranked up the chic quotient by combining their signature draping with a more refined color palette and a surprisingly restrained (but never boring) color palette — just don’t let the few over-designed prints and slightly awkward bits of tailoring distract from the serenely beautiful vibe.
Doo.Ri Much love to my fellow Asians, but there’s no mindless fawning when it comes to Doo-Ri Chung’s beautifully draped pieces, which were executed less frivolously thanks to a newfound willingness to embrace structure and shape.
Edun For years, Edun’s been better in theory than in practice, but hiring Sharon Wauchob proves a saving grace with a collection rooted in wearable whites, earthy prints, and super functional silhouettes…and you can feel good about it, too!
Frank Tell Frank Tell’s razor sharp eye helped him craft a concise collection of 15 looks that took his signatures (tailored leathers and ever-so-messy knits) to a new level of sophistication, giving the age old adage about lessness and moreness a very modern relevance.
Jason Wu I’m never bowled over by Jason Wu (it’s pretty, but sometimes too pretty) and his forays into tailoring always feel like they’re chasing after the lines of a Beene or Blass, but this season’s experiments with proportion and fabric provides smart, modern options for the ladies-who-lunch and that, ultimately, will yield great dividends for Wu.
Julian Louie Julian Louie’s range of clean lines and tasteful prints indicate both a strong sense of retail and a past life as either a painter or a geometry teacher.
Kimberly Ovitz I love Kimberly’s designs (her color palette, meticulous lines, sense of shape), but after so many seasons of roughly the same thing, it’s a little harder to look past the $600 price tag, the “Made in China” label, and the sense that you’ve seen this done somewhere else (either cheaper for less or better for more).
Lacoste For his farewell letter to Lacoste, Christophe Lemaire reworks the brand’s sporty heritage with a healthy dose of volume and Bauhaus-inflected graphics for a fitting summary of his tenure that sends incoming director (and protégé) Felipe Oliveira Baptista a perfect lob — whether Baptista can serve up an ace is up to him.
Michael Angel Let me save you the three minutes it will take you to get through Michael Angel’s beautiful, but inanely repetitive showing by telling you all you need to know: tailored latex, high-slit skirts, and gorgeous prints.
Nicole Miller Nicole, Helmut Lang wants his palette and deconstruction…but you can keep the proportions and silhouettes if you promise to keep them this fresh and sleek.
Ohne Titel If athleticism and minimalism are keywords for the season, then the girls at Ohne Titel were born fluent and capitalized on their “It” label-status by sending out everything from sporty shorts to pants slouched just-so to perfectly pleated skirts, a broad vocabulary that ultimately spells success.
Peter Som Som takes a bold step out of his comfort zone (though he does bring his familiar eye for color and print with him), in a show marked by its youthfulness and energy — but we’ll see if the Upper East Siders are up to the task of dressing down the next time they want to dress up, but Som’s hedging his bets and ensured that there are a few more conservative pieces, too.
Ports 1961 Unless you’re one of Fiona Cibani (who has taken over from younger sis Tia) clientele of elegant, but slightly predictable PYRTs (Pretty Young Rich Things), then you need not apply to wear any of her muted, clean sportwear with the occasional dose of vibrant color.
Prabal Gurung Even if he can get lost in his own visions — the strong, graphic feel got lost a bit amongst some excessive embellishment, but was quickly picked up again — but his second full-fledged showing in New York proved that his designs aren’t as simple as being body conscious; they’re woman-conscious, woman-oriented, and woman-glorifying.
Rag & Bone It’s almost like the Rag & Bone boys spent a few months pretending they’re Helmut Lang and continued to design what their customers usually love while playing pretend, but I can’t will my disbelief to suspend any longer when the colors are so strange (wannabe Proenza Schouler palette included) and the proportions and layering so awkward.
Steven Alan Why Steven Alan even feels compelled to show his clothes (slouchy summer staples, classic outerwear, California Dreamin’ in garment form) when we all know exactly what he’s going to put out is completely beyond me.
United Bamboo Same old, same old from the duo behind United Bamboo, but given their penchant for clean, classic lines that have just a hint of the now (think Prada-esque prints and flashes of skin underneath tailored jackets), that can hardly be considered a bad thing.
Vivienne Tam Vivienne Tam has always worn her inspirations (Asia! The East! The Orient!) on her sleeve and it’s no surprise that it was her most subtle efforts — patchwork lace/crochet pieces, swingy reconstructed shorts — were the most desirable and least hokey.
Nom de Guerre’s fall/winter collection has arrived and let us tell you — it was worth the wait. Fabrics are the real star, ranging from super-tough moleskin, to plush flannel, to cozy fleece, and tech-y cotton/nylon blends. Outerwear takes center stage with parkas, coats, and jackets of everyone…
Do not sleep on this shit if you want it. No lie, Oki-ni is charging twice as much for the same stuff (and some of it is in lamer colorways, too), so come and get it while the getting’s good!
Bensoni With a few knockouts (the long belted trench, the pleats, the better prints) and some dropouts (the jumpsuit, the bolero, the worse prints), it still feels like Bensimon is running in the middle of the pack, but there are promising indicators that Clyburn and Yoon are reading to pull ahead.
Christian Siriano Too much drape, too much fluff, too much print, and — surprisingly — not enough style.
Cushnie et Ochs The design duo looked deep and confronted a new, less overtly body-conscious version of themselves, producing looks that balanced gritty, pretty, witty, and left one wanting more and wanting it now.
Gregory Parkinson Parkinson is your go-to guy for prints (the plural being of the utmost importance here) and if you don’t get it, you don’t get it, but if you do get it, then you won’t need to get it from anyone other than him.
Jen Kao It’s like emotional ping-pong — love the idea, hate the execution; love the jackets, hate how some of them are styled; love the grays and greens, hate the granny-style hues.
Lyn Devon Nothing new from Lyn Devon, but when your clothes are so graphic (but not gratuitous), are so eminently wearable, and when they inspire nearly instant covetousness, it’s clear that you don’t need “new” for something to be good.
Mandy Coon I don’t know how Mandy Coon alchemically transformed my initial groans at her jellyfish theme to an appreciative murmur of interest, but I suspect the deft handling of finish, texture, shape, layers, and proportion had something to do with it.
Nicholas K Nicholas K’s outerwear-focused brand is kind of a one trick pony (even if a modernized military look is a pretty fashion- and retail-savvy trick), but if you look past some of the slightly clunky proportions and drapes, there’s a practiced hand mixing garments that everyone’s seen before with genuinely modern clothes.
Rachel Comey When Rachel Comey lets her prints play nice (as opposed to awkwardly smashing them together like so many seventh grade boys and girls at their first dance), they add just the smart, graphic punch needed to elevate her clothes from pleasantly-status-quo-retro to beautifully-retro-but-not-too-retro-so-that-it’s-kind-of-modern.
Richard Chai Love Expensive mainlines be damned as Richard Chai offered the spotlight to his secondary line and together they got to the very heart of American sportwear: clothes that are meant to be worn and, when worn well and simply, encompass everything from sleek to powerful to modern to athletic to easy — in a single stroke.
Ruffian Instead of simply running the military trend into the ground, Brian Wolk and Claude Morais throw out hard, soft, shiny, sexy (in their inimitable way) and show the late-comers to the bandwagon exactly how it’s done and if we’re lucky, they’ll convince the others to give up chasing someone else’s trailing coattails.
Vena Cava There’s always something proper about Vena Cava’s clothing, but when Sophie Buhai and Lisa Maynock let their cuts and colors do the talking for them, they unleash a devastating siren song that leaves everyone craving that dress..and that coat…and those shorts…and that blouse…
I thought I moved out of the East Bay so that I wouldn’t have to deal with afro-sporting, cigarette-smoking, flip-flop-wearing white boys who are trying super hard to be “unique”. What’s the dealio, SF?
P.S. He’s also wearing an unbuttoned short sleeved shirt on top of a graphic tee.
Acrimony is looking to hire a part-time sales associate! We’re looking for fashion-oriented people who are available 20-30 hours a week (though there’s a potential for more). We’re a small team of people who love what we do and what we wear, so you have to able to keep up!
…Bored of all the mainstream designers at department stores?
…Experienced in retail?
…Constantly using Facebook, Twitter, etc.?
…An avid reader of fashion magazines, blogs, and other media?
…Comfortable handling men’s and women’s clothing?
Send us a résumé at firstname.lastname@example.org with “RESUMÉ” in the subject line.
So we’re looking for a new person to help out at the shop. The title is technically “sales associate”, but with a small company like ours, everybody does everything: we all sell, but we all style, we all merchandise, we all receive shipments, we all talk about our buys, and — most importantly — we all try to have fun. If you like being in a small team and working on intimate grounds with people who seriously can’t be serious, then shoot us your résumé!
"There’s nothing as offensive as going to your friend’s house and finding it impeccably well-kept. I mean, absolutely in perfect shape. It’s equal parts provocation (to do the same), insinuation (that you can’t), and gloating (over your implied failure). I find few things ruder and more tasteless."
“Most people go through life dreading they’ll have a traumatic experience. Freaks were born with their trauma. They’ve already passed their test in life. They’re aristocrats.”—Diane Arbus (via ladivasosa)