There are times when you look at the catwalk collections and the sheer volume of garments seems completely daunting, especially if you are a student who has just experienced the pressure of designing a small range, or if you are a young designer who is about to start their own label. It can be easy to get carried away with the maths of it all… if there are 40 looks and about 3 garments per look then that’s 120 garments that need to be designed, pattern made, cut, fit, altered, sewn etc… and you may begin to think that you simply can’t compete with that size of collection. The truth is though that when you actually break some of the collections down, the clever designers can manage to get maximum impact from far less than 120 separate garments.
One such example is by looking at the collection that Rick Owens presented in Paris for Autumn-Winter 2011. There is obviously some very clever designing and range planning occurring behind the scenes, as the actual number of individual styles worked out to be only about 33 styles by my count, a fairly reasonable number considering that it was a 41 look collection.
Not all designers would work with such condensed styles for such a large collection, and it is very dependent on the style of designer. This approach happens to work for the layered look that is such a part of the Rick Owens brand any way. Also due to the fact that he does the majority of the pattern making himself, there obviously needs to be some forethought about how this can be managed to complete the collection on time, so careful range planning may form a part of this strategy.
The collection images below have been analysed by giving each separate style a number. Basically every time that a new pattern would be required, there is a new number, and then colour ways are listed next to each number. The reason for analysing the collection in this way is because this is how you would prepare cut sheets for manufacturing. For example, one jacket pattern that needs to be cut in 5 colours will mean that fabrics of different colours can be layered and cut at the one time, from the one jacket pattern. 5 totally different jackets, in 5 different patterns would need to each be cut completely separately, meaning more time and money.
Here is the total list of garments with brief descriptions:
Knitted Hood (Black/Dark Grey)
Fur Hood with Knit Trim (Black/Dark Grey/Light Grey)
One of the best posts that The Cutting Class has done, but I feel obliged to also mention the important work that Panos Yiapanis puts into arranging and layering the collections that Rick produces. I’m sure that Rick has a great eye for how his clothes come together in outfits, but the severity and austerity of form and shape really comes to life when Panos arranges the pieces together so that 33 pieces really do feel like 120.
Here’s a list of things people study that I do not respect, in order of contempt:
“Cultural studies” or “ethnic studies”
Humanities in general
Most social science in general
If you want to waste money studying ancient Bolivian culture or something, you really need to rethink your priorities.
Just throwing it out there.
so learning about anything other than math or science is a waste, eh? you’re an uncultured piece of shit.
if i’m interested in bolivian culture, i’m going to study the fuck out of it. if i like art history, i’m going to pursue it. shutting down other peoples dreams is so fucking close minded. grow the fuck up, kid.
Dear OP: Please kill yourself. Fucking ignorant sacks of dog shit like you need to fall of the face of the earth for good you pretentious jizz stain. Now do it. Go an hero, you smug little shit. Or die in a fire, you uncultured fucking jerkoff. God. I hate people like you so much. So shut the fuck up, stop pretending you’re better than anyone else (because you’re not, after all, you’re an uncultured little fuck-face) and shut the fuck up. Did I mention to kill yourself? Because you really should get on that. People like you ought to be kicked in the dick repeatedly with a steel-toe boot.
I should kill myself for having a personal opinion about subjects which use normative analysis.
On second thought, someone should major in psychology and make sure this man stays far away from me and in a padded room.
Psychology ≠ psychiatry.
But being a liberal arts major has given me lots of useless face time with a dictionary and a thesaurus, I guess.