SOME WORDS ABOUT MILAN, PART II

Alexander McQueen: The omnipresence of the suit in Milan’s runways and presentations have been impossible to miss, but few designers are as convincing in their call for civility and refinement as Sarah Burton. It’s a testament to how strong the brand’s DNA is when Burton manages to capture both the refinement and rebellion that have always been a hallmark of the house’s menswear. After an opening salvo of very proper suiting, the ombre coloring of a Glen plaid suit gives you the first indication that not all is as it seems. Soon enough breeches appear (some finished with elastic bottoms that recall the soccer pitch), then sport coats begin taking on some elements from varsity jackets, before all hell breaks loose in an array of unmistakably McQueen printed tailoring. Florals, lavish embroideries, and rich burgundies soften the navies, charcoals, and icy whites that run throughout, offering a Romatic vision of menswear that’s sure to leave some misty-eyed.

Diesel Black Gold: Credit where credit is due: Sophia Kokosolaki has done wonders in turning Diesel’s high-end line from a rag-tag assortment of would-be designer pieces—sharper eyes will have noticed their versions (a less gentle word would be “copies”) of pieces from bigger names before her arrival—into a real collection. There are still a few too many pieces “inspired” by other work (that leather raglan-sleeved pullover skirts a little too close to Marc Jacobs’ own iteration for fall 2011), but Kokosolaki has made huge strides towards creating a defined Black Gold customer: a man who buys into the rock and roll vibe of Diesel but wants something smarter, more luxurious. In that vein, it makes sense that denim and leather have become integral parts of her line-up. These remain the strongest points, sure to please retailers and customers alike, but awkward lengths on some knits and less-than-perfect fits on some suits struck a harsh note in what could have been a serious power chord.

giulianoFujiwara: There’s been no shortage of bloggers raving about the shoes and accessories that Masataka Matsumura makes, but his smart blend of Italian tailoring and Japanese streetwear has been one of the most consistent collections shown during Milan for seasons now. So when he says he’s tapping into the outdoorsy vibe that has ruled the runways for what seems like forever, you wouldn’t expect skirts and double-breasted jackets. But when paired with chunky shoes (another runway staple that Matsumura somehow manages to keep from feeling staid and done), unconventional details, and a subdued palette of grays and navies, it just works.

Jonathan Saunders: Jonathan Saunders has flirted with menswear for a while now, shuffling an odd brightly colored boy into his womenswear shows here and there. For his first full menswear collection, Saunders still plays on the safe side, riffing off the palette he developed for his last women’s range for pre-fall 2012, even using the same backdrop for the photos. In fact, many of the Charlotte Perriand-inspired textiles, weaves, and patterns are exactly recycled, though what seemed slightly prim and flirty for women has a distinctly Mod-ish feel when cut into almost unforgivably slim silhouettes. There’s a good idea here, but Saunders needs to realize that men don’t want to be companion pieces to their girlfriends and wives. If anything, he was at his best when he broke from the visual language of his women’s collection to find a smart, modern middle ground with high-buttoned suits in pale pinks and blues and when his signature prints were toned down into restrained accents.

Umit Benan: Does it say more about us or about him when Umit Benan’s regular use of non-model models is a genuinely refreshing change of pace? Too often, we talk more about clothes rather than people, but Benan refuses to work for some imaginary ideal customer and his casting only proves how strong his tailoring and sense of taste really are. Breaking from the soft, louche tailoring that’s defined the start of his career, these sharply regimental clothes were equal parts luxurious, forward-thinking, and supremely wearable; a hat trick few designers so young and new can even dream of accomplishing. But there is no luxury for the sake of luxury here; with men of all ages, shapes, and sizes looking so chicly ennobled, Benan makes war (and the uniforms that men wear in combat) a true equalizer. It’s a theme that permeates the storyline of the new season of Downton Abbey now airing in America and yet it’s an idea that always seems out of reach on the runway. Somehow, though, Benan’s clothes make such a far-fetched notion seem fait accompli.