Rick Owens Lilies Spring/Summer 2013
Exploring a fuller, richer palette, Rick Owens’ upcoming collection for his jersey-centric Lilies label plunged head first into looks you’d more closely associate with the glamorous movie stars costumed by Adrian and Givenchy than the reigning king of goth. And yet, as with all of Owens’ work, it’s really just another roundabout return to his roots. At its heart, the collection pays homage to the freakishly perfect veneer of old Hollywood, reveling in its excessive devotion to perfection and femininity. It was an illusory world that never was, but undoubtedly informed Owens’ time spent in Los Angeles before his move; for all hisParisienneflair, Owens is not French and, thankfully, never will be.
The Owens’ tropes remain—structured jerseys cut with fierce tailoring, languid jerseys in worn-out shades, filmy layers piled on top of one another—but there’s a distinct polish that works in direct opposition to the devil-may-care attitude the clothes evoke. Even the palette seems off-hand, recalling the unexpected blush creeping across a shocked mademoiselle’s cheek or the milky swirl of spilled coffee. Nonchalance is always necessary in Owens’ world.